The Clock of Your Skin –
Can You Slow Down It?
Despite the fact that Dr. Isidor Apothecary produces ancient and traditional formulas of toiletries and skin care products we strictly follow the principles of modern cosmetic science, phytocosmetics, pharmacognosy, ethnobotany, phytovigilance and new results in research of natural and herbal formulation in cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and skin care products. Simply Dr. Isidor Apothecary is traditional apothecary and perfumery for our modern times and 21st century lifestyle.
Here, we would like to share with you some new results in the research related to skin aging.
Skin aging can be divided into two types, that is, intrinsic aging or chronological aging (inevitable phenomenon) and extrinsic or premature or photo aging (evitable phenomenon) owing to the physiological and environmental factors, respectively.
Morphologically, photo aging is characterized by dry, rough, pigmented, and abraded skin especially of face and hands in individuals who live in sunny geographical regions and are chronically exposed to direct sunlight. Conversely, fine, smooth wrinkles on dry, pale skin impart the characteristics of intrinsic aging. Diagnostically, intrinsic skin aging is identified by seborrheic keratosis which is not a biomarker of photo aging. Pathologically, the photo damaged skin shows vascular damage that is absent in intrinsically aged skin (Jadoon S., et al., 2015).
Skin aging is caused by several factors. Ultraviolet (UV) exposure as well as oxidative stress elevates inflammatory mediators causing degradation of the extracellular matrix, which is regarded as the major cause of skin wrinkles, one of the signs of aging. Topical applications of active ingredients protect against dermal photodamage and scavenge radicals that can delay skin aging. Matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors against degradation of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronan are the key strategy to combat cutaneous aging. In addition, active ingredients with the efficacy to enhance extracellular matrix production, including those with UV protection efficacy, play an important role in protecting the skin from aging. Naturally derived compounds for combating skin wrinkles are gaining more interest among the consumers as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier (Kanlayavattanakul M., Lourith N., 2015).
The fact that the skin is the most visible organ makes us aware of the ageing process every minute. The use of plant extracts and herbs has its origins in ancient times. Chronological and photo-ageing can be easily distinguished clinically, but they share important molecular features. Some of the plant extracts have the ability to scavenge free radicals, to protect the skin matrix through the inhibition of enzymatic degradation, or to promote collagen synthesis in the skin. There are some plants that can affect skin elasticity and tightness. Certainly, there is a place for herbal principles in antiaging cosmetics. On the other hand, there is a constant need for more evaluation and more clinical studies in vivo with emphasis on the ingredient concentration of the plant/herbal products, its formulation, safety, and duration of the antiaging effect (Binic I., et al, 2013).
The skin as an organ is directly exposed to external conditions, including temperature, light, humidity, UV radiation and pathogens. Under normal, healthy conditions, it has been reported that many attributes of human skin follow a periodicity: hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), capillary blood flow, sebum production, temperature, surface pH, keratinocyte proliferation rates, and even the visibility of facial rhytides. Most likely due to the more permeable barrier at night, itch and irritation have also been reported to have both a circadian and an ultradian rhythm. It has been reported that skin blood flow has a pattern characterized by low morning rates, with the highest rates in the afternoon and a second peak in the late evening just before sleep. Sleep is associated with decreased heat production and increased heat loss, the latter resulting from an increase in skin blood flow and skin temperature. In fact, changes in perfusion and peripheral skin temperature may be functionally linked to sleep onset. Skin temperature typically reflects cutaneous blood flow, with the lowest temperatures occurring in early morning and highest in the early evening. This correlates with increased barrier permeability in the evening, and a higher incidence of itch.
Aging itself is known to result in increased oxidative stress in most organs and tissues, and a relationship with dysfunction of circadian clocks has been reviewed in detail elsewhere. The authors discuss research that shows (a) a correlation with aging and circadian disruption; (b) that mutations in clock genes shorten life span; and (c) that longevity can be extended by transplantation of fetal clocks into the brains of aged animals. Clock genes play an important role in maintaining homeostasis and responding to oxidative stress (Matsui M.S., et al., 2016)
Due to the presence of numerous bioactive ingredients in phyto-extracts, extract loaded creams are considered more efficacious with lesser side effects against aging in comparison to creams loaded with specific individual antioxidant. Owing to tremendous antioxidant potential, phyto-extracts are extensively used in numerous cream formulations. Up to now, Acacia nilotica (acacia, Egyptian mimosa, Egyptian thorn, red thorn. Babool, babul (in India)., Benincasa hispida (winter melon), Calendula officinalis (calendula / marigold), Camellia sinensis (green tea), Nelumbo nucifera (Indian lotus), Capparis decidua (karira), Castanea sativa (sweet chestnut), Hippophae rhamnoides (sea-buckthorn), Lithospermum erythrorhizon (the purple gromwell), Malus domestica (apple), Matricaria chamomilla L. (chamomile), Moringa oleifera (moringa), Morus alba (white mulberry), Ocimum basilicum (basil), Coffea Arabica (coffee), Crocus sativus (saffron crocus), Emblica officinalis Gaertn (emblic, emblic myrobalan, myrobalan, Indian gooseberry), Foeniculum vulgare (fennel), Oryza sativa (Asian rice), Polygonum minus (knotweed, knotgrass), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Silybum marianum (cardus marianus, milk thistle, blessed milkthistle, Marian thistle, Mary thistle, Saint Mary’s thistle, Mediterranean milk thistle), Tagetes erecta Linn. (African marigold), Terminalia chebula (black- or chebulic myrobalan), Trigonella foenum-graecum (Fenugreek, Alhova, Bird’s Foot, Greek Clover, Greek Hay), and Vitis vinifera (grape) have successfully been used in developing the stable cream formulations with excellent antioxidant effect, possibly due to presence of multiple antioxidant phytochemicals (Jadoon S., et al., 2015 with some modifications).
These are some of the most common botanicals used in developing the stable creams formulations with excellent antioxidant effects. Honestly, the list is much longer. Old and modern pharmacognosy extended the list tremendously. Dr. Isidor Apothecary use many of these botanicals listed above, however and many others not listed above. Our “Antiaging cream” is the complex formula and it contains over 27+ different herbal, algal, lichen, botanical extracts. This cream will provide your facial skin with proper care, reveal brighter skin, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles to restore your skin’s youthful complexion, will nourish your skin, properly hydrate, and importantly provide your skin with natural antioxidants to fight against free-radicals. Our formulas are designed to promote the natural beauty of healthy luminous skin. Some certain ingredients will try to promote collage synthesis as much as possible. Some our customers stated and shared their experience with us about this cream very honestly “I wish I could use this cream before I got so deep wrinkles”. By using this cream you will soothe sensitive facial skin, some oils in this formula contains a plethora of vitamins that promote skin regeneration while offering protection and proper hydration. How will you get more youthful appearance with this cream, some ingredients have gentle exfoliating properties they lift up dead skin cells and encourages the skin’s natural cell turnover process, simply result will be smoother skin that is more youthful. However, some other ingredients in this formula will provide a full fight against stubborn skin discoloration, and soothe irritation. Due to constant exposure of human skin to the UV radiations present in sunlight, several pathobiological alterations in cells occur. The photo-protection is the main approach for managing the photoaging, but cosmeceuticals could also be used as an alternative therapy. The selection of therapeutic approaches depends on the nature of these injurious molecular changes. Large number of botanical extract loaded creams have been prepared and assessed for their antiaging potential. The observed antiaging effects of cream formulations could be an outcome of a coordinating action of multiple constituents. Of numerous botanicals, the phenolic acids and flavonoids appear effective against UV radiation-induced damage.
- Saima Jadoon, Sabiha Karim, Muhammad Hassham Hassan Bin Asad, Muhammad Rouf Akram, Abida Kalsoom Khan, Arif Malik, Chunye Chen and Ghulam Murtaza, Anti-Aging Potential of Phytoextract Loaded-Pharmaceutical Creams for Human Skin Cell Longevity. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity Volume 2015, Article ID 709628.
- Kanlayavattanakul M., Lourith N., An update on cutaneous aging treatment using herbs. J. Cosmet. Laser. Ther. 2015; 17 (6):343-52.
- Binic I., Lazarevic V., Ljubenovic M., Mojsa J., Sokolovic D., Skin ageing: natural weapons and strategies., Evid. Based Complement. Alternat. Med. 2013; 2013:827248.
- Matsui M.S., Pelle E., Dong K. and Pernodet N., Biological Rhythms in the Skin. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2016, 17(6), 801.